MiniTiouner Kit MTK1 Instructions.

[G8GKQ]

The latest version of the MiniTiouner software (v0.2b) displays the video in the app, rather than using VLC. This means that if you are using a Satellite signal to test your newly-built MiniTiouner (as detailed in Appendix 4 of Brian's excellent instructions) you need to enter the correct video and audio PIDs into the MiniTioune software (top right hand side of the window) to decode the video.

So, for Astra 2 at 28.2E (Sky) on 10729000 use PID Video 2347 and PID Audio 2348. You will also need to tick all the FEC boxes on the left hand side.

This is not an issue for single-channel amateur DATV transmissions where the software automatically determines the correct PIDs (thanks Jean-Pierre!).

Dave
G8GKQ

[GW0KAX]

Hello All,

Having Sourced the PCB, Tuner and FT2232H module from the BATC shop, I've just ordered the MiniTiouner Kit components from Farnell & RS as per the Supplied BOM.

The 1V regulator specified has been discontinued by RS: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/low-dropo ... /6695152P/

Is there an easily sourced alternative?, an Internet search for MCP1826-ADJE/AT throws up:

http://uk.farnell.com/microchip/mcp1826 ... dp/1578432

I'm a bit worried about the heat dissipation using this device as it isn't in a TO220 Package.

An eBay Search produced this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROCHIP-MCP ... xy4eJTMEVw

Which is only rated at 500mA dissipation.

Any suggestions before I use a High Power resistor

73

Petrie
GW0KAX

[g8cpf]

Might sound daft Petrie .... but I'm going to try two of those devices in parallel....... Many thanks for the links. de Mike in Minehead (QRV 70cms DATV)

[MN-tech]

The surface mount version solders to the board with no problems.
The other two regulators could still be mounted straight up for use with a heat sink if you are so inclined.

[g0mjw]

An SMT 1V regulator is dissipating quite a bit of power. You can solder it to a bit of copper to make a better heatsink but its probably best to limit it to 1W or less.

An old trick when trying to reduce regulator dissipation is a series resistor in the supply, suitably rated. Without a resistor if you are running it off the 5.5V rail at 1A its dissipating 4.5W or if run of 3.3V its dissipating 2.3W. A 3.9 ohm 5W resistor from the 5.5V or a 1.8 ohm 2W if from the 3.3V ought to do the job.

Mike

[GW0KAX]

Thanks for the ideas Guys,

I'll go with the 1V SMT & Series Resistor (1R8 2W)

Cheers

Petrie
GW0KAX

[PA1KW]

Dear all,
Will there be more "USB tuner project short kits" in the BATC shop available soon?
Thanks
73 Koert PA1KW

[g8gtz]

Hi Koert

Unfortunately we will not be doing any more kits unless we can find someone to order and make up the kits.

However, the PCB, Sharp tuner and USB modules are available from the BATC shop and the rest is "normal" components.

The 1 volt regulator has proven difficult to source so we are hoping to buy some of those and put them in the shop as well and we will try and buy some more Sharp tuners when the current stock has sold.
73's

Noel - G8GTZ

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[g8gtz]

A couple of members have pointed out that Mouser will produce kits from a BOM.

Unfortunately, right now we don't have the bandwidth to organise it - our appeal for additional help with the basic tasks of running the club (membership sec and online development) produced absolutely no response!

So yes, great idea but we (it's your club) need a volunteer to organise it!

Noel - G8GTZ

[pa3weg]

While I am waiting for my activation on Viva DATV to download MiniTioune, I thought I would share my experience constructing the kit.

I have received all parts separate, so not in the full kit form. I have ordered the PCB and 1V regulator from the BATC shop.

As someone with experience in soldering and bill of materials, I have not precisely followed the instructions, but they are very detailed.
it was no problem to produce the board from the instructions. I was using instructions V1.9.

The regulators do not get hot at all, I am heat sinking the three regulators to the aluminium chassis using some home fabricated brackets.


Some feedback:

• The use of North and West etc for locations on the PCB: there is no reference in the document where this is. I figured if the PCB is in "landscape" then north is up. Would be helpful to define that.
• The colour of the LED is not specified, so I guessed the forward voltage
• Normally, negative terminals are marked (exception: tantalum caps), here it is the reverse

The rest is all very clear. Thanks for making this available!