Hi all,
I had built my MiniTiouner into a Hammond 1455N1601 case, and I wanted to put the Ryde in a identical
matching unit. So with the limiting constraints of gpio, hdmi and sd card positions, I had to use a IDC extender cable
and mount the gpio card to one side to allow access to the sd card from the front panel.
The black heat sink on Pi4 needed filing/grinding and the plastic IDC plug needed a slight reduction to make a proper
connection to the gpio.
The photo shows a partial completed unit, the Pi4 is mounted on a steel plate and gpio board on a plastic channel
as supplied by B&Q.
Best regards to all
Don EI8DJ
Ryde in a small Hammond case
Re: Ryde in a small Hammond case
For the headless Ryde used in GB3EY I have used the Hammond 1455N2201 which is a 220mm long version of the usual Hammond box that the Minitioune v2 PCB is fitted into. The BATC PCB slides in nicely and there is just room to squeeze in the Pi 4.
Clive G3GJA
Clive G3GJA
Re: Ryde in a small Hammond case
Hi Clive, a nice compact arrangement you put together, well done.
My apologies for my initial post, I pointed the photo link to the web page and not the image,
so here is the correct photo.
My apologies for my initial post, I pointed the photo link to the web page and not the image,
so here is the correct photo.
Re: Ryde in a small Hammond case
Hi all,
thought that you may be interested in my Ryde in a small Hammond case (Type 1455K1202, approx. 125 x 80 x 40mm). This is my second Ryde and for both, external tuners are used. In this case, I decided to try without any special heat sink, as the earlier Ryde didn't seem to get very warm in its Armour heatsink strapped inside a small diecast box. For this Ryde, ventilation holes were made in the box lid and one can just about detect warm air rising. Monitoring of the temperature via the ssh menu option, indicated a peak at about 60C after 1 hour, dropping slightly to about 58C. This was when receiving the QO-100 beacon continuously over at least 4 hours. Using an IR thermometer, the case temperature rose to about 30/31 C, with the ambient shack temperature at 19C.
The front panel used a piece of matrix board, which had a handy 0.1" grid for drilling holes. All components were mounted on this board, with mostly SM resistors. The GPIO connection used only a header.
73
Jen G4HIZ
thought that you may be interested in my Ryde in a small Hammond case (Type 1455K1202, approx. 125 x 80 x 40mm). This is my second Ryde and for both, external tuners are used. In this case, I decided to try without any special heat sink, as the earlier Ryde didn't seem to get very warm in its Armour heatsink strapped inside a small diecast box. For this Ryde, ventilation holes were made in the box lid and one can just about detect warm air rising. Monitoring of the temperature via the ssh menu option, indicated a peak at about 60C after 1 hour, dropping slightly to about 58C. This was when receiving the QO-100 beacon continuously over at least 4 hours. Using an IR thermometer, the case temperature rose to about 30/31 C, with the ambient shack temperature at 19C.
The front panel used a piece of matrix board, which had a handy 0.1" grid for drilling holes. All components were mounted on this board, with mostly SM resistors. The GPIO connection used only a header.
73
Jen G4HIZ
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- Ryde2_2.jpg (1.75 MiB) Viewed 3175 times
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- Ryde2_1.jpg (1.45 MiB) Viewed 3175 times
Re: Ryde in a small Hammond case
Hi all,
To give you an idea of my case, here it is.... Farnell order code 1456CE2WHBU. 51 mm X 102 mm X 140 mm. 2mm thick Aluminium - so I hope you enjoy filing as much as I try to avoid it.
Its all a bit tight so just be careful, if you duplicate my idea. Take your time. Some small room for expansion, and any 3.5 mm audio jack would also need an extension from the Pi.
I used a micro HDMI to HDMI cable and I hot melt glued the switch panel in place, and the IR receiver module. I did not want to see screws on the front.
The PSU is external, and a RPi 3 type (2.5 A).
Drilling the switch hole matrix was not easy and I have made a few errors, so take care.
The Pi is mounted on three metal stand-offs as the lower case half has ventilation slots in the way of number four.
I would also strongly recommend using a metal case, as the RPi 4 generates QRM on 70 MHz. Not seen much on 50 MHz. And therefore, keep your Knucker Rx and MT Rx well away, in their own metal cases if you use these lower VHF bands. And remove the Ethernet cable when not in use and ferrite the PSU lead.
73, Mike
To give you an idea of my case, here it is.... Farnell order code 1456CE2WHBU. 51 mm X 102 mm X 140 mm. 2mm thick Aluminium - so I hope you enjoy filing as much as I try to avoid it.
Its all a bit tight so just be careful, if you duplicate my idea. Take your time. Some small room for expansion, and any 3.5 mm audio jack would also need an extension from the Pi.
I used a micro HDMI to HDMI cable and I hot melt glued the switch panel in place, and the IR receiver module. I did not want to see screws on the front.
The PSU is external, and a RPi 3 type (2.5 A).
Drilling the switch hole matrix was not easy and I have made a few errors, so take care.
The Pi is mounted on three metal stand-offs as the lower case half has ventilation slots in the way of number four.
I would also strongly recommend using a metal case, as the RPi 4 generates QRM on 70 MHz. Not seen much on 50 MHz. And therefore, keep your Knucker Rx and MT Rx well away, in their own metal cases if you use these lower VHF bands. And remove the Ethernet cable when not in use and ferrite the PSU lead.
73, Mike