I suspect that your google search found 7 dBm into 600 ohms. Even then, it's not quite right.
Rearranging W = E squared/R gives me E = root(W * R). 7 dBm = 0.005 W, so E=root(.005 * 50) = 0.5 V rms.
However, that doesn't help you as I do not know about DC checking the pass-through of the RF switch. I always use RF to check them, and use my very cheap DVM on the lowest ohms range (200) to check for short-circuits between pins and non-connected pins.
Is it the 4-way or the 8-way that is causing the issue?
Checked my DMM, it gives out 3.1 volts on diode test and 0.66v on Ohms. I DC checked against the diagram, all OK. Every lead was checked through too so I was confident about the build integrity.
Using my RSP-1 as a spectrum analyser (very handy software called RSPSAS), via a lot of attenuation, I followed through the DDS signal. It got as far as the input of the RF amp on the filter board and then stopped. So I unsoldered the chip. It left the RH leg behind so I suspect it was either damaged during soldering (by pressing down presumably if it wasn't already flat when I soldered it) or during the desoldering process.
Anyway, new part soldered in carefully it all works and the exiting signal is a decent size and passes through the various circuits to appropriate sockets on the back panel.
All is now well and the signal levels and MER are looking nice and strong. Onward with amplifiers now, dare I secure the lid???
All part of the learning curve, time to browse Farnell/eBay for something suitable. Suggested brands welcome. Ideally something with a long service life like my Weller TCPs although tips are beginning to get scarce these days.
https://kaisertech.co.uk/jbc-cd-2be-sol ... l-purposes
I have a needle point weller tip but TBH I find my usual 2.3 chisel bit just as usable under some magnification. Even on the 4 way filter board, that worked best for me. I think solder paste might be the next thing to try, assuming that surface tension is sufficient on the unsoldered end to stop 'tombstoning' when the first end is soldered?
Apparently the JBC is the one to go for but you will need deep pockets.
Oh yes, and 0.3mm solder is a must for SMD.
powerful like an 861DW. Another thing that I am thinking of getting is a ceramic panel to pre-heat boards
as once something is attached to a ground plane it is a pig to remove / re-solder.
I built my own reflow oven using a Arduino to control it but as yet not used it in anger.
The thing I have found most useful was in fact a stereo microscope which I bought used on eBay.
I couldn't find the exact ones he was referring to on eBay and now I have lost the link to his video. Seemed a good idea. I believe they are used in
heating tongs and run off 12 volts, you can buy them with different temperature cut offs between 80c and 220c